Archive for the 'Pest Prevention and Treatment' Category

 

Heartworm Prevention, Naturally

Mar 19, 2008 in Pest Prevention and Treatment

I am privileged to have received permission from Dr. Jeanette Thomason to print her wonderful article on natural heartworm prevention. Dr. Thomason is a veterinary naturopath whose website www.thewholedog.org contains a plethora of information regarding raising dogs, holistically. In addition to naturally rearing champion Boston Terriers, she maintains a blog on her website, online store stocked with natural products, and co-hosts the popular Internet radio show, Animal Talk Naturally.

The Whole Dog JournalNatural Heartworm Prevention

by Dr. Jeannie Thomason

The cause of heartworms are mosquitoes. For dogs, and sometimes cats, they can cause life-threatening problems because they transmit heartworms. These are parasites that enter the bloodstream as larvae and migrate to the heart. Six months after reaching the heart, the larvae turn into adults, and that’s when problems begin. Full-grown heartworms eventually fill the heart, blocking flow of blood to the lungs and doing damage to the heart. By the time you see symptoms, they’ve already done damage to the heart.

The heartworm has 5 separate larval stages referred to simply as L1, L2, L3, and so on. It also has two separate cycles that combined makeup the lifecycle of the heartworm. One cycle takes place in a mosquito and the other inside a dog.

The mosquito becomes infested when it bites a dog, which is harboring L1 (MICROFILARIAE). This can only happen if the dog is also harboring the L5, or adult, male and female heartworm as the Microfilariae are their offspring. These Microfilariae can live for up two years in the dog’s blood but must be taken up by a mosquito in order to develop any further. If they are not they will simply die of old age.

Once the mosquito is infested, the larva must go through to stages of development or molts L2, and L3, before they can infect another dog. This, mosquito, stage takes anywhere from two weeks to several months depending on the weather. The warmer the weather the faster the development.

The importance of temperature:
While the larvae are developing in the mosquito, the temperature MUST remain above 57 degrees Fahrenheit at all times, day and night. If at any time during the mosquito stage the temperature drops below 57 F, the development is halted and must start over. It is only the L3 larvae, which are capable of infesting your dog.

So, now lets say that a mosquito has bitten an infested dog and the temperature has remained above 57° for a minimum of 14 days since that bite and the mosquito bites your dog. Still your dog is not infested because the L3 larvae are deposited in a tiny droplet of mosquito saliva adjacent to the bite not injected into your dog as many would have us believe.

Providing the humidity and temperature are such that the droplet does not evaporate, the L3 larva must swim through the saliva and into the mosquito bite, thereby entering your dogs system. Once inside your dog the L3 larva must spend the next two weeks or so developing into the L4 larva. During this period of time the larva is living in the skin, not the blood of the newly infested dog. The L4 will continue to live and develop in the skin for the next three or four months where it develops into the L5 stage.

Once it makes this development into the L5 it then leaves the skin and enters the circulatory system. The L5 or young adult then migrates to the heart and pulmonary arteries. Once there it will mate approximately 5 to 7 months after entering the dog’s body. That is of course assuming that the dog has been infested with both male and female larva. This mating produces the Microfilariae.

Prevention is by far the most important part of medicine. As you all know by now, I am convinced that having a very strong immune system is of the utmost importance to your dog. I believe that a strong healthy dog will throw off parasites and illness all on it’s own.

With that said, dogs that are not at their peak of health should be first started with a good diet, (I recommend a raw diet or a chemical free, grain free healthy food), supplementation and general remedies for a period of time to strengthen their immune system. Then, the wonderful, natural treatment effects will kick in! (See my articles on the immune system here.)

NOW, realize this, a dog must be essentially healthy in order to resist succumbing to heartworm (or its treatments). This statement is more than just an idle observation – it is the principle that ensures the survival of wild canines, who (think about this now…) suffer far greater exposure to heartworm-carrying mosquitoes however, succumb in far lesser numbers than domestic dogs!

Dr. William Falconer, a veterinarian with a homeopathic practice in Austin, Texas states: “The heartworm has been out there forever as far as we know, but we don’t read reports of wolves and coyotes being wiped out by heartworm, and yet domestic dogs are falling prey to it.”

Interesting point, don’t you think?

So why are our pets/domesticated dogs falling prey to heartworms? Surely they are healthier then the wild canines, with all our feeding of scientifically balanced, processed foods and vaccinating them to prevent them from getting nasty and sometimes fatal diseases right? WRONG!

We’re vaccinating our dogs way too much and too often, we’re feeding them poor nutrition to say the least, and we’re using chemical pesticides to kill their fleas and ticks. All of these things combine to weaken their immune systems, and their immunity is what’s going to save them.

On the other hand, Foxes, coyotes, and wolves go unvaccinated, eat only raw meat, bones, and only a very few herbs and/or berries when there is no meat available. These wild canines are never exposed to the dozens of toxic chemicals we use to kill fleas, ticks and even heartworm on our dogs and in our homes. Interesting that some seem coyotes and foxes have been found through research, to be able to “fight off” heartworm infestations and some others become host to the parasite however, in small enough numbers that the heartworms don’t threaten their hosts’ lives.

Veterinarian Dr. Jeffery Levy states: “Thanks in large part to the scare tactics of many veterinarians in promoting preventive drugs, many people believe that contracting heartworms is the equivalent of a death sentence for their dogs. This is not true.”

Dr. Levy practiced for seven years in the Santa Cruz, California area, and treated many dogs with heartworms. The only dogs that developed symptoms of heart failure were those that were being vaccinated yearly, eating commercial dog food, and getting suppressive drug treatment for other symptoms, such as skin problems.

Dr. Levy concluded from this that it was not the heartworms that caused disease, but the other factors that damaged the dogs’ health to the point that they could no longer compensate for an otherwise tolerable parasite load. “It is not really that different from the common intestinal roundworms, in that most dogs do not show any symptoms. Only a dog whose health is compromised is unable to tolerate a few worms. Furthermore, a truly healthy dog would not be susceptible to either type of worm in the first place. It seems to me that the real problem is that allopathic attitudes have instilled in many of us a fear of disease, fear of pathogens and parasites, fear of rabies, as if these are evil and malicious entities just waiting to lay waste to a naive and unprotected public.”

Whichever end of the scale holistic veterinarians place themselves on, they all agree about the first step toward heartworm prevention and treatment: A dog must be essentially healthy in order to resist succumbing to heartworm (or its treatments). This is more than an idle observation – it is the principle that ensures the survival of wild canines, who suffer far greater exposure to heartworm-carrying mosquitoes but succumb from the parasites in far lesser numbers than domestic dogs.

Parasites were never intended to kill their hosts. When they do, be assured that something is very out of balance. A parasite’s whole evolutionary thrust is to continue to live/survive its life cycle; if it kills its host, there’s a dead end. The fact that our domestic dogs are dying of this disease in greater and greater numbers indicates that something is way out of whack!

Given the wild canines’ efficiency in dealing with heartworm, virtually all veterinary naturopaths and holistic practitioners, recommend utilizing as many aspects of the wild canines’ lifestyle as is practical for domestic dogs, including, most importantly, a natural diet of raw meat, bones, minimal vaccination, and severely curtailed exposure to flea/tick - killing pesticides.

Animals with healthy, balanced immune systems are not in need of specific preventives because their very lifestyle is their preventative!

Heartworm Prevention

HeartwormMost veterinarians (that are not holistic practitioners) will recommend giving a daily or monthly pill to prevent heartworms, but in actuality you’re not preventing them; you are administering the cure on a regular basis. This cure for heartworm is toxic. It contains a chemical insecticide. The chemicals are capable of causing disease. The dosage is much smaller than the actual treatment, but when it’s administered month after month, the toxic side effects become a serious health risk.

According to the American Veterinary Medical Association, 65% of adverse drug reactions and 48% of all reported deaths resulting from drug reactions are caused by heartworm preventatives. The potential side effects of Ivermectin (the active ingredient in Heartgard) include liver problems, vomiting, diarrhea, loss of appetite, depression, lethargy, skin eruptions, seizures, tremors, paralysis, autoimmune disorders, thyroid problems, fever, weakness, dizziness, coughing, nose bleeds, difficulty breathing, pneumonia, irritability, sudden aggressive behavior, nerve damage, fertility problems, and sudden death. Other chemical heartworm preventatives have many of the same side effects.

These drugs weaken your pet’s immune system that recognizes the chemicals as poison. The body works hard to eliminate the toxins and major organs, like the liver and kidneys, are taxed. For this reason, the pet’s body is not able to handle contact with the normal bacterial or viral substances in our world, so it gets sick more easily.

Part of the veterinary industry has acknowledged these dangers. These “alternative vets” are open to natural, safe and effective alternatives. Many of these vets believe that the long-term use of heartworm prevention drugs are a link in the chain of diseases such as arthritis, liver and kidney diseases, skin allergies, and many types of cancers.

Learn how to boost your pet’s immune system here, as appeared in the Whole Dog Journal, January 2004 Issue.

Dr. Michelle Tilghman, D.V.M. says, “Strengthen [your pet’s] resistance with whole foods. Dogs are more likely to resist heartworms when they are given all-natural foods, which help keep the immune system strong.

If you don’t want to feed them a natural raw diet or make their foods at home, then please, use a commercial food that is free of grains, potatoes, additives and preservatives.

Read about Rubicon, a holistic, organic, grain and potato free kibble that is layered with freeze dried raw meat and bones here.

Dr. Mona Boudreaux, D.V.M. says, “Give [your pet] garlic. This pungent herb makes the blood bitter and is thought to repel mosquitoes, cleanse the blood, and strengthen the immune system. Dogs over 50 pounds can have as much as two teaspoons of garlic a day, and smaller dogs can have 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon a day. Caution! Garlic can be a problem for cats, so don’t give them too much if at all A safe limit is 1/8 teaspoon or less a day for up to two weeks at a time.”
There are several great Natural Preventative Programs out there. I will share a few with you here. However, PLEASE Remember, the key is to keep your dog’s healthy with strong immune system not to rely on herbs or other modalities while still feeding junk food, vaccinating and using chemicals on your pets.

If you live in a region with a large mosquito population and/or your dog has been on a not so perfect, kibble diet and regularly vaccinated until now, you may want to use an herbal/botanical approach.

The first one, I personally used for a few years with my own dogs in the past. It consists of three herbal products:

Artemisia Combination - This is used like a monthly de-wormer.
HSII -(sold by Nature’s Sunshine) this is to keep the heart strong. It can be given every few days or at least once a week.
Black Walnut - This is a great nutrition booster helping metabolism and keeping the animal less desirable by parasites [fleas, ticks, and mosquitoes].

 

Artemisia Combo

This product combines elecampane root with two species of Artemisia, mugwort and wormwood, to provide an exceptionally powerful herbal formula. Artemisia has a long history of use in China, Europe, and the U.S. for its anti-parasitic qualities. Artemisia is believed to create an unfavorable environment for parasites.

 

Ingredients:
Proprietary blend 780 mg *
Elecampane Root (Inula helenium)
Mugwort Herb (Artemisia vulgaris)
Clove Flower Buds (Eugenia caryophyllata)
Garlic Bulb (Allium sativum)
Ginger Root (Zingiber officinale)
Spearmint Herb (Mentha spicata)
Turmeric Root (Curcuma longa)
Olive Leaf (Olea europa)
Wormwood Herb (Artemisia annua)
*Daily Value not established
Other Ingredients: Cellulose (plant fiber), magnesium stearate (vegetable), silicon dioxide (powdered silica), gelatin, and water.

Black Walnut

Black Walnut is used as an astringent
because it is rich
in tannin, a toning substance. Black
Walnut is famous for
it’s cleansing
properties and has
been used to treat
worms.

 

Ingredients:
Black Walnut Hulls (Green Hulls) (Juglans nigra) 1000 mg*
*Daily Value not established
Other Ingredients: Magnesium stearate (vegetable), silicon dioxide (powdered silica), kosher gelatin, and water.

 

HSII

HS II is a combination designed for support to the
circulatory system, containing: hawthorn berries, capsicum and garlic. Hawthorn berries is used to strengthen and tone the heart, feed the adrenals, cleanse arteries, and has been known to balance blood pressure. Capsicum has long been used as a way to boost circulation and cleanse the body. Recent studies have shown garlic to be of benefit to the digestive, circulatory and immune systems.

Ingredients:
Proprietary blend 920 mg*

Hawthorn Berries (Crataegus oxyacanthoides)
Capsicum Fruit (Capsicum annuum)
Garlic Bulb (Allium sativum)
*Daily Value not established
Other Ingredients: Gelatin and water.

A Prevention Program Using These Herbs

Guideline for weight:
*Under 5 lbs - 1/4 capsule Artemisia and 1/8 ml of Black Walnut Liquid Extract (2 to 5 drops)
*10-25 lbs - 2 capsules Artemisia and 1/4 ml Black Walnut Liquid Extract (5 to 7 drops)
*25-50 lbs - 2-3 capsules Artemisia and 1/2 ml Black Walnut Liquid Extract (10 to 15 drops)
*50 lbs and over - 3 capsules Artemisia and 1 ml Black Walnut (20 to 25 drops)
*100 lbs and over - simply double the *50 lbs and over instruction above

During the first week of each month [for 7 days]:
Based on a 12-15 pound dog (adjust accordingly)
One (1) Artemesia first thing in the morning and one (1) in the evening [as close to 12 hours apart as possible] on an empty stomach [as much as possible] so the properties have a chance to kill parasites without having to be blended with a full meal. Most dogs have no problems with this formula on an empty stomach. If your dog does, you can give as much food as necessary with it, but this is a rare necessity. This is like a monthly de-wormer.

One (1) HSII every few days or at least once a month. This is used to keep the heart strong.

1/4 ml Black Walnut Liquid Extract (5 to 7 drops), sprinkled over food, daily or given orally!

Given all month long:

Four to five (4-5) days each week, I put 1 to 1-1/2 ml Liquid Black Walnut in their drinking water or 1/4 - 1/2 Capsule sprinkled on their food.

To Order These herbal formulas, click here.

On the average, using the recommended Nature’s Sunshine Products mentioned above, this heartworm program should last approximately 2 to 3 months for a 50 lb. dog!

I’ve found that most pets like Black Walnut Extract. A little bit of Black Walnut goes a long way, so be sure to adjust this according to weight like the rest of the program.

Please use wisdom and common sense in deciding whether the natural approach is for you and your pet family. Since the herbal way is less expensive than the drugs, please be sure you make the investment to have your dog tested annually.

The above herbal formulas have been used in higher dosages to treat heartworm positive dogs! Please click here for more information.

Since the best way to prevent heartworms is clearly having the dog’s immune system in tiptop shape, I want to share two products that science has proven work to improve the immune system. They are:

Transfer Factors (found in Bovine Colostrum) and Humic extracts, specifically Fulvic acids.

When scientists remove every larger and identifiable component from colostrum, including milk, whey, individual cells, etc., what remains last of all is the ultramicroscopic transfer factor. Transfer factor has been best described as tiny fragments of molecules, possibly DNA fragments that somehow remain functional. These fragments seem to be energized with some unknown mysterious power of self-replicating communication.

Dr. Falconer currently is doing a study and having great success with a new, not yet available, highly potent transfer factors product to treat heartworm positive dogs.

Interestingly, in many ways the scientific studies on the mysteries and mechanisms of fulvic acid parallel exactly the studies on transfer factors. So far as we know, no other scientists have actually put the two together. Scientists working with fulvic acid know that it also is an ultramicroscopic substance that has a most unique messaging relay system that is activated when it comes into contact with living organisms. Just like transfer factors, fulvic acid sensitizes cells, passing on unique information related to immunity. It also has been shown to assist in activating protection and defense mechanisms that are able to be passed on and remain with the organism for life, even with just one contact.

As a preventative, many are using the Vital HF™ that is a Humic Acid/Fulvic Acid product.

Young Living Essential Oils

Here is a program that I have had people share with me: Young Living’s essential blend, Di-Gize in conjunction with Young Living’s Parafree. I have two testimonies from people with dogs that had been tested “high positive” and after 21 days are now testing “mild”.

Following is one of the Heartworm protocol using Young Living products.

Give Di-Gize and Parafee on the food daily for 7 days in a row each month.

Dosage:
* Tiny to small dog: I would give 1 drop of Di-gize, and an 1/8 of a dropper of the Parafree.

* Medium dog: give 2 drops of Di-gize, a 1⁄4 of a dropper of the Parafree.

* Large dog: give 3 drops of Di-gize, a 1⁄2 of a dropper of the Parafree.

* Super sized dog: give 4 drops of Di-gize, a 1 of a dropper of the Parafree.

NOTE: Di-Gize can be given daily every day of the year if desired. It is it is good for the stomach, intestinal/digestive tract and the urinary tract.

There have been testimonies that people have successfully used the following to rid heartworm in rescue dogs that tested positive for heartworms when they entered their care.

Young Living Heartworm Protocol

Please keep in mind that this may not work for your individual pet.

Supplements and Oils needed from Young Living Essential Oils:

* Di-gize
* Parafree
* Immupower
* Essentialzyme
* HRT
* Mineral Essence
* Sulferzyme
* Vitagreen
* Either Berry Young Juice or NingXia Red Juice

The Di-gize and Parafree are the most important items to begin with; however, you will want to add the rest of the items to the diet as soon as possible because they help to rebuild the damage done by the heartworm.

Mix the above items with a wet food mixture and feed this daily. You will want to make sure you keep up this regimen as long as it takes to get the dog free of the heartworm (testing comes back negative). I have had cases clear up within a month and one case that took 4 months to fully get heartworm free. Persistence is the main key.

Now, how much of each to give the dog? Well, of course it is going to depend on the size of the dog. Here’s a basic guideline; feel free to adjust accordingly.

* Tiny to small dog: I would give 1 drop of Di-gize, a 1/8 of a dropper of the Parafree and 2 drops of the Immupower. I would give a 1/8th of a teaspoon of all the dry supplements and an 1⁄4 dropper full of the liquid HRT and Mineral Essence. I would give 1⁄4 oz of the BYJ or NRJ.

* Medium dog: I would give 2 drops of Di-gize, a 1⁄4 of a dropper of the Parafree and 2 drops of the Immupower. I would give a 1⁄4 of a teaspoon of all the dry supplements and a 1⁄2 dropper full of the liquid HRT and Mineral Essence. I would give 1⁄2 oz of the BYJ or NRJ.

* Large dog: I would give 3 drops of Di-gize, a 1⁄2 of a dropper of the Parafree and 2 drops of the Immupower. I would give a 3⁄4 of a teaspoon of all the dry supplements and a 1⁄2 dropper full of the liquid HRT and Mineral Essence. I would give 3⁄4 oz of the BYJ or NRJ.

* Super sized dog: I would give 4 drops of Di-gize, a 1 of a dropper of the Parafree and 2 drops of the Immupower. I would give a 1of a teaspoon of all the dry supplements and a 1 dropper full of the liquid HRT and Mineral Essence. I would give 1 oz of the BYJ or NRJ.

Leigh Ann Foster VT, CVA, Certified Animal Behavior Specialist, Professional Animal Rescue and Rehabilitator.

PLEASE NOTE! Only Young Living Essential Oils should be used in these prevention and treatment programs.

To order the above Young Living products, click here.

Heartworm prevention requires a multi-faceted approach, which includes not only boosting and keeping the immune system in top shape but not exposing your dog to mosquitoes as much as possible.

I’ve been successful with a preventative program, but would not recommend this for dogs who are kept outside because they have increased exposure and are thus at higher risk.

To provide as much protection as possible from mosquitoes, you can use cedar mulch in the dog house, make sure there is no standing water for the mosquitoes to breed and prior to leaving the house and again upon returning after play or “business”, your dog can be misted with an essential oil spray made of distilled water and 100% pure, therapeutic grade essential oils (The Whole Dog and Dr. Jeannie only recommend and use Young Living Essential Oils) and make up your own spray which you can make up and keep by the door.

The mist I personally make up and use is made of 1 cup of distilled water with 10 drops of geranium OR 4 drops each of lemongrass, grapefruit and peppermint. Shake before spraying. I use this on myself as a great mosquito and bug repellent when I am out in the garden in the evening. Nice and safe with no worries of toxic chemicals on the skin.

Another great mosquito repellant spray made with essential oils is as follows:

20 drops of each of the following oils per 10oz of distilled water:
Purification
Peppermint
Orange

Mix them with 10 oz of distilled water, shake and spray the pet down every time it goes outside. If it stays outside all the time, then it is suggested using Purification “neat” along the spine and on the ears 2 – 3 times a day. (This will also help deter flies.)

There a many essential oils that make very effective and safe insect repellents, you may want to try some different combinations for yourself and dogs to see what works best for you.

Again, PLEASE NOTE! ONLY Young Living Essential Oils are recommended or used by the Whole Dog as we know these oils to be 100% pure, organic and therapeutic grade.

So in a nutshell, keeping your pet parasite free, whether it’s heartworms or other parasites, requires good whole nutrition which means a raw or home cooked diet or at the very least, the highest quality grain and potato free pet food, and natural source supplements.

I do not recommend people take their dogs off their heartworm medications unless they agree to do so with their holistic vet or veterinary naturopath’s supervision. There are plenty of alternative or holistic veterinarians for you to consult with.

Copyright © 2003 -2008. This article is the sole property of Jeanette (Jeannie) Thomason and The Whole Dog. It cannot be reproduced in any form whatsoever without the expressed written consent of the author.
Cup of Dog has received permission to post the contents and thanks Jeannette Thomason for her generosity in sharing her knowledge.

Flee Fleas! continued….

Mar 17, 2008 in Pest Prevention and Treatment

The Dangers of Pesticide Application and the Pests Themselves

Following up on Flee Fleas!, I wanted to be sure to give and overview of the health ramifications of the fleas and ticks themselves.

flea 2Fleas can cause a variety of illness, beyond the annoyance of their presence. Each flea bite instigates minor irratation and some pets develop an allergy to their saliva, resulting in flea allergy dermatitis, which can result in horrible itching, discomfort along with hair loss and and a variety of other skin problems including redness and scabs. In addition, fleas are often associated with tapeworm. When a dog grooms himself, he may ingest a flea carrying tapeworm larvae and the tapeworm will continue to grow in the dog’s gastrointestinal tract. Fleas also can cause flea bite anemia in tiny dogs and puppies. When many fleas feed on a small pup, signifigant enough blood loss can occur that requires veterinary intervention.

Tick bites present a plethora of highly degenerative illness. Ticks make their way throughtick Fluffy’s coat, dig their heads under the skin and gorge themselves on your pet’s blood. The most common tick bourne illnesses are Lyme disease, Ehrlichiosis, Basesiosis and Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever. Click here to find out which tick bourne illnesses are most common in your area. Be sure to be as diligent in checking yourself and family members for ticks if you find one on your pet and/ or live in a high risk area.

Danger!Knowing the risks of these pests, I still avidly promote the use of natural flea and tick prevention and care. Consistent use of pesticide application on our pets to control flea and tick infestations are as dangerous as the pests themselves. These health risks are not limited to our pets. Poisonous to the touch, friends and family members giving their dog affection are unknowingly ingesting these toxins through their skin as well. Children are at a much higher risk, as their bodies and nervous systems are still developing and exposure to these pesticides can create risks for acute poisoning.

According to Rose Marie William’s article on BNet,

“Pesticides are neurotoxins that destroy and target pest’s nervous system, promoting an early death. Nerve gases were originally developed during WWII to use against the enemy. At the conclusion of the war, chemical companies were left with stockpiles of these toxins, and peacetime uses were sought…Little or no thought was given to health and environmental consequences and thousands of products were introduced before the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) was instated.

Two-thirds of flea pesticides are neurotoxic, some are capable of reproductive damage in lab tests, and the EPA lists approximately one-half as carcinogenic,” (Williams, Safe Flea Control & Organic Labeling - Health Risks and Environmental Issues).

While ineffective against the flea cycle, pet owners spend millions on pest control, unknowingly bringing chemicals into their home that are highly toxic to their pet’s nervous system, seeping into the animals skin, poisoning them through their eyes and nose, permeating into their lungs, heart, liver, kidneys and bloodstream. Dogs who are consistently exposed to these chemicals can suffer from a variety of health repercussions. Exposure may result in immediate or long term responses of respiratory problems, trembling, seizures, vomiting and diarrhea.

In response to consistent exposure to flea and tick preventative, the flea has a longer life cycle then ever before and is able to thrive in conditions once known to kill them. Responding to the more persistent nature of the pest’s, the multi-million dollar industry of pet pesticides has had to use ever stronger chemicals to eradicate them.

In my first post on the subject, Flee Fleas!, I discuss how I go about controlling fleas and ticks without the use of pesticides. While researching the subject, I found a plethora of information available with plenty more suggestions on how to do so. It is clear that it is becoming increasingly obvious to consumers that pesticide application is compromising the health of our pets, yet veterinarians, those who are supposed to be looking out for Fido and Fluffy’s best interest, continue to push prescription pesticide products. NDRC

The National Resources Defense Council has also published a highly informative article on the risks of flea and tick preventatives.

It is time for responsible pet owners to look beyond the industries that push these products on pet owners and decide for themselves if they will pay for expensive pesticide products in addition to the veterinary care that their pets will need from exposure to chemicals. Diligent prevention and care of your pet will be more effective then any chemical pesticide.


Flee Fleas!

Mar 14, 2008 in Pest Prevention and Treatment

How to Avoid Pest Infestation, Naturally

I do not use prescription or chemical flea and tick control. I live in South Florida, one of the ‘riskiest’ places for fleas and ticks, year round.

In the “puppy packs” that I received from my vet when I got Louis and adopted Ella, there it was, Frontline, with pamphlets to emphasize the importance of flea and tick control and the havoc that these pests can wreak on a dog’s health. Those scare tactics work. I was scared - so scared that I gave Louis an application of the stuff right after his puppy checkup, 48 hours after he arrived at his new home.

I hated the toxic smell and the oily residue it left on Louis’ coat. I hated that he fervently scratched at the application area for the next month. The packaging said to avoid contact with skin, eyes or clothing and wash my hands thoroughly with soap and water after using the product.

OK, so am I just not supposed to touch my beloved puppy???

This is a pesticide. Would you apply a pesticide to your own skin???? Didn’t think so. I tossed the next month’s application in the trash. It wasn’t easy. I was blatantly ignoring a veterinarian’s advice. What kind of mom ignores a doctor’s advice? Ultimately, I felt I had to trust my gut instinct. This was a few months before my holistic education began, and often this is the type of event that leads pet owners down a holistic path.

Flea and tick prevention is not easy. It is a struggle for every pet owner, especially in warmer climates and during the summer when it is most fun to be outdoors with your pal. The truth is, I meet people all the time who tell me, “I use (insert choice of prescription pesticide here), every month like my vet said too, but Fluffy still has fleas and ticks!

Yeah, these products don’t completely protect your pets. Stinks, but its just another myth in the million dollar industry of dogs, flea and ticks. So, before I get into the health ramifications of applying a pesticide monthly directly to Fluffy’s skin, let me please say that even if you choose to use a veterinarian prescribed or over the counter flea and tick pesticide, you still have your work cut out for you. Nothing is as foolproof as being a proactive pet owner.

Owning a dog is a lot of work. Bearing in mind that my dogs weigh in together at a total of maybe 14 pounds, I am respectful of those who choose to parent Louis and Ella’s large breed cousins. Big dogs are awesome! But, they also need a lot more time invested in controlling fleas and ticks. Make sure you are ready for the commitment the dogs you own require, be they big, tiny, hairy or hairless, its a lot of work.

Since abandoning the standard flea and tick prevention route, I have taken on a routine that has kept my pups relatively problem free.

First off, please note that fleas and ticks are far more likely to infest the immune deficient pet. Your pet is likely to be immune deficient if he is eating a commercially prepared, chemical laden diet, if he is subject to routine vaccination, if he is in poor mental health or is neglected in any way. Unfortunately, any one of these descriptions are true of most pets. Flea and tick infestations are indicative of immune and vitamin deficiency and any infestation should be ample warning that your pet has an underlying health problem that will continue to progress without care.

The first step is nutrition. Feeding a whole diet that is fresh, natural and chemical free is the beginning. These products are beginning to become increasingly presentDr. Pitcairn in retail venues, making them easier to obtain then ever. Don’t rely on the packaging to tell you that the food is natural, look at the ingredients. Are their real meats and vegetables instead of byproducts and wheat gluten? Read up on animal nutrition. Dr. Pitcairn’s New Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs and Cats contains the gold standard in what to look for as far as feeding your pet. It is easy to understand for beginners and is extremely valuable in easily understanding natural pet health. He also offers insight into raw feeding and is conscientious while describing the risks and rewards.

I am a raw feeder. The immunity benefits of raw feeding have been tremendous for my dogs. In addition, I use supplements catered to their specific needs. I use an enzyme supplement, so the dog’s derive the maximum health benefits from their food. I use a high quality cod liver oil to promote skin and coat health, but the real benefit of the oil are the vitamins A & D that promote immunity and overall well being. I also use an all around natural immunity booster called DMG. In addition, supplements such as garlic or yeast that make the blood of your pet unpalatable to pests. Don’t forget to stay calm and happy in your own life, as your stress and struggles are obvious to your dog and when he picks up on that and is subjected to it in extremes or over a long period of time, his immunity will be compromised. Dogs are exceptionally tuned into their pack or family. Louis had a tick hop on him (removed promptly, before he began feasting), had some diarrhea and a sore on his ear while I was in the thick of my illness. He had taken on my stress and fears, resulting in compromised immune function. Louis’ doctor’s prescription was for me to practice relaxation and meditation techniques with Louis in the room or on my lap. All that was unwell has resolved, for us both! Simple and inexpensive!

The second step to a flea free friend is frequent bathing. I aim for twice a week and up to four times a week in hot weather, more often if anything buggy has arrived. I know people say over washing dogs can lead to dry skin, but with proper nutrition and a gentle shampoo and good conditioner that contains skin soothing ingredients, I have not had any gross flea close upproblems. A serious scrub with warm water kills fleas, removes their eggs and often reveals ticks that have latched on. If I see a flea or tick on one of my dogs, we head straight for the shower. I am not going to lie - sometimes its a pain to do this, but imagine the fleas or ticks in your bed at night or crawling onto your skin while you give your dog hugs and affection. That is enough to motivate me to get scrub happy. If thats still not enough, check out that gross picture of the flea I included. Eww.

If you are not using any homeopathic remedies, and you are having serious and consistent problems controlling the issue, you can use a product containing essential oils that are unfriendly to fleas and ticks. Some of these may include tea tree oil, pennyroyal, eucalyptus, cedarwood, sage or citronella. There are others I know I have left out. Do not apply essential oils directly to your pet. They are extremely concentrated and a few drops in the shampoo do the trick. If you are unfamiliar with these products, there are plenty of pre-formulated natural shampoos that contain these oils. If you wash frequently, please alternate essential oil containing shampoos with gentler natural shampoos to avoid skin irritation.

My next step is going to seriously make you think I am completely neurotic. Each night before bed, I comb both dogs out with a flea comb. Everywhere. Leave no ear unturned and no paw unlifted. Examine your fur kid as often as possible, even if in the context of playtime or belly rubs, poke around and make sure he is flea free. Make sure to diligently check in areas that are warmer, like the sensitive and vulnerable ears, his adorable belly, around his tail and the inside or outside of his thighs. These are common places for pests to take up residence.

Some of my holistic minded friends use natural repellent sprays before each trip outside that contain essential oils that make the dog undesirable to pests. This is another great option for big and or really hairy dogs. Spritz ‘em down! Again, if you are using any homeopathic remedies, your practitioner or guide will advise against this, as essential oils may disrupt the remedy’s process of stimulating natural healing.

Do not use essential oils or the suggested supplements on cats. They have very different nutrition and flea and tick needs - there are plenty of great natural cat rearing resources on the internet and at your bookstore.
This is the advice I dole out to dog owners. In sunny south Florida, with regular walks and romps through the park, I have found three ticks on Louis over a period of 8 months. Only one of them had attached and begun to burrow, and this was during the period while I was transitioning his diet. The other two were just hanging out, pretty bummed that they hopped on a guy who was to healthy and untasty to snack on!

I have yet to have a flea infestation. I have found “flea dirt” (bits of dried blood from flea excretion), so he has been bitten, but they didn’t hang around. A good week of daily scrubs deterred the problem.

Finally, frequent vacuuming and cleaning of carpets, floors, upholstered furnishings and all bedding will kill anything that fell off your pet. One flea on your dog can mean about thirty fleas are in the house. Sick! Be conscious of using non-toxic cleaning products to eliminate unnecessary exposure to chemicals which may compromise his and your immune system.

I realize this is all very time consuming. Assuming responsibility for a pet means a huge lifestyle change. As with children, we are the ones responsible for our pet’s health and well being. Its not easy being covered in fur! All kinds of things can get hidden in there.

There is plenty more to say on the subject and I will be following up withLouis in the park information about why fleas and ticks are dangerous, the health risks associated with these icky creatures and the risks associated with the standard pesticide pest controls. Fleas and ticks needn’t keep our dogs from enjoying a fulfilling outdoor life.

Responsible pet ownership is multi-faceted and each dog has his or her own unique set of needs. Getting to know your pet is ultimately the best thing you can do, know his needs, moods, likes and dislikes. Each dog, like us is an individual and when treated as such, its a safe bet that at the end of your leash is a dog brimming with vitality, spirit and health.